Pizza Pilgrimage: Pizzeria Bianco
Earlier this year, my dad asked me if I wanted to go to Phoenix for baseball spring training. As the words were leaving his mouth, my mind already had a revelation: “I can go to Pizzeria Bianco!” Needless to say, my answer came quickly. “Yep. Let’s go.”
For those of you that are unfamiliar with Bianco, it has been celebrated by pizza fans everywhere. It is included in countless top 10 pizza lists, featured on Oprah, Food Network and countless books and magazines. Chris Bianco (who makes every pie himself) has achieved an almost mythical status in the pizza world.
Needless to say, I had to know what all the fuss was about.
I planned my arrival in Phoenix so I would be there several hours ahead of my dad and brother (who were coming in from Chicago). This would give me ample time to spend at Bianco and take in the whole experience without worrying about boring my non-pizza-loving father to tears.
As soon as my plane touched down, I grabbed my suitcase, hopped in a cab and headed to 623 E. Adams Street. I arrived at 3:45 - one hour and fifteen minutes before the doors opened - and there was already a crowd forming. By 4:20, there were probably 60 people in line. The restaurant can seat 40 people at a time, but by 5:00, the hostess estimated that people at the back of the line would wait three hours to sit. Holy smokes!
I put my name on the waiting list (I missed getting in on the first seating by one table) and headed to the next door “Bar Bianco.” I grabbed a beer and sat at a table on the porch. It was about 80 degrees out and I was feeling great. As tables began to fill up, I was asked to share my table with a couple from Chicago who were expecting a two hour wait. Needless to say, a pizza discussion ensued.
About an hour later, the hostess walked over to let me know they were ready to seat me. After promising to report back, I headed over to the restaurant to grab my seat - which turned out to be at the restaurant bar, presenting me with a great view of Chris Bianco manning the oven. It was definitely the best seat in the house for a solo pizza eater like myself.
The menu offers six pie selections, though you can create your own combos if you prefer:
- Margherita - Tomato Sauce, Fresh Mozzarella, Basil
- Marinara - Tomato Sauce, Oregano, Garlic (No Cheese)
- Rosa - Red Onion, Parmigiano Reggiano, Rosemary, AZ Pistachios
- Sonny Boy - Tomato Sauce, Fresh Mozzarella, Salami, Gaeta Olives
- Biancoverde - Fresh Mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, Ricotta, Arugula
- Wiseguy - Wood Roasted Onion, House Smoked Mozzarella, Fennel Sausage
Wanting to make the most of my experience, I ordered a margherita and a wiseguy. At this point, it is worth noting that Chris Bianco is totally obsessed with giving his customers the best ingredients available. He makes many of the ingredients himself (including the mozzarella and sausage) each day and opts to use organic ingredients whenever possible. He even goes so far as to not serve sweetened sodas in either the bar or the restaurant.
The margherita arrived first and I decided to snap a photo. Seeing this, the group next to me at the bar offered to take a picture of me with the pie. “You GOTTA have a picture with you in it!” Obviously, another pizza discussion ensued as I dug into my first pie.
I’ll be totally honest, I ate the margherita REALLY fast. It was absolutely fantastic. I want to use the best available words to describe it, so I’ll quote Robyn Lee (aka The Girl Who Ate Everythign): “Mmm….mraah…whoa…gaarh…”
As good as the margherita was, the wiseguy was better. The combination of smoked mozzarella, fennel, Bianco’s sausage and chewy crust made my taste buds do a one-night only revival of Riverdance. I distinctly remember bites that were as close to pizza perfection as I’ve ever tasted. The whole thing just kind of melts in your mouth. Oh great, I’m drooling as I write this.
This much was clear: I never wanted to leave the walls of the restaurant.
Of course, if I never left, I’d be selfishly blocking some other pizza lover from a seat, so I did my duty and settled up (a very reasonable $25 for two pies). As I left the restaurant, Chris Bianco looked up and waved (as he did when every single table departed) while saying thank you and good night. Classy guy.
I made my way back to the Chicago couple waiting on the porch of Bar Bianco and gave them my report. The couple at the next table overheard and chimed in - turns out they were from New Haven and yet another pizza discussion ensued (New Haven types are perhaps the most passionate regional pizza style defenders). I had time to kill and I grabbed a beer and joined them while they waited.
When I revisit the Bianco experience in my mind it is, of course, the pizza that stands out most. But, what really made the night special for me were the numerous discussions with fellow pizza lovers. It was as if everyone who ate there intended to make it an evening long celebration of pizza. When people are willing to wait upwards of three hours for pizza, you know they’re there because they love the stuff. Almost everyone wants to talk about their favorite places and hear about your favorites. For a pizza fanatic like myself, that’s about as perfect an experience as you can ask for.
Rating: Five Slices … no question.
Pizzeria Bianco
623 East Adams Street
Phoenix, AZ
(602) 258-8300
